A Personal Narrative on My Journey
through the Middle East

Our first destination is outside of Qamishli where the Tai tribe are located and prior to this we made a stop in Al-Hasakah for something to eat. Finally we reach the location of the Tai and the sight from my bus window was astonishing. Here in a dramatic massive open setting, with the mountains of Turkey about 20 kilometers north and the border of Iraq a short distance to the side, is a gathering of tribesmen numbering, we were told, about 5000. A tent nearly the length of a football field had been erected and we were escorted to one end of this enormous tent for special seating and introductions to the ruling Sheykh Mohamad Abdul Razak Al-Taiee, Amir of the Tai tribe, and other dignitaries. Behind him is a large banner saying in English: “Arabian Tai People Welcome To You.” All of this had been arranged just for our visit. We were also told there were about 150 horses present and that 50 lambs had been slaughtered for our later feast. I found the experience brought tears to my eyes as it was overwhelming that so large a family of people could offer us hospitality to this extent.

A grand welcoming to us from the Tai tribe. Note the banner.	Heading for the finish line in the 2,500 meter race.

The majority of these tribesmen had ridden or walked their horses great distances to attend this occasion, as far away as 50 miles. As we were seated in the tent before us was an enormous open plain rimmed with thousands of people and across this span were marker flags as they prepared to hold their traditional Arabian for us. Races began with the shortest distance, 1,000 meters, and ending with the longest distance, 7,000 meters. The thousand meter race was for one and a half year-olds ridden by young Tai children and the riders and horses ages increased with the distances. The 7 Kilometer race would be very grueling for our Western horses but these tribal horses seemed fresh after the race as they are used to daily riding and work. At the completion of the races the Tai proudly paraded every horse, one by one in front of the tent for us, giving the strain of each. They passed swiftly and in the narrow passage way it was difficult for me to grab a good shot or two but nonetheless, some pictures here illustrate what wonderful quality and character these tribal horses have.
 

A magnificent Muniqi Hadruj stallion belonging to the Amir of the Tai.

As we noticed from the horse presentation the Tai have a great wealth of strains. Some of the ones which we saw the most of were Saqlawi Jidran (several branches, Ibn Amood, etc.), Abayyan Seheili, Abayyan Sharak, Shuwayman Sabbah, Hamdani Simri, Kuhaylat Ajuz, Kuyahlat Dajani, Kuhaylat Rabda, Kuhaylat Mimreh, Muniqi Hadruj, Muniqi Sbaili, Hadban Inzihi, Rarer strains (as noted by Issam Haj Hassan, Ministry translator) included Kuhaylat Riznieh, Kuhaylat Ziada, Kuhaylat Al Wadna and Kuhaylat Saada Togan. With over 150 horses presented these are by no means all the strains but at least some that I remember or caught on audio tape.
 

A lovely Shuwayma Sabbah mare of the Tai tribe. Note Bedouin saddle.

Following the races and horse presentations, it was time to feast from the large platters with traditional Mensaf and a chance for me once again to eat with my hands. Here one eats all they can swiftly and then stands back from the huge platters making room for the next round of eaters. After the feast attendants repeatedly circulate serving tea and coffee as we begin a round of discussions with Sheykh Mohamad Abdul Razak Al-Taiee to learn about the Tai horses and their history. This exchange will no doubt be the subject of more complete articles in later publications.

Sheykh Abdul Razak is a man who immediately radiates a presence of both wisdom and calm self assuredness. His expression is one of someone who is keen and has much of life’s experience in his eyes. He is easy to listen to and speaks in a matter of fact style inviting the listener to hear the wisdom. We were told that the Tai tribe consists of about 75,000 members and that the tribe has actually been involved with horses since before the Islamic revolution. They told us of some of the strains that were originated in the Tai tribe such as: Kuhaylat Rabda, Kuhaylat Ibn Mizher, Kuhaylat Mimreh, Kuhaylat Armousheh, and Kuhaylat Jilfa. Curiously, I had asked about the Kuhaylat Saada Togan that we saw earlier and was told that the strain originates with Sherif Hussein of Mecca the ruler of Hejaz (western Saudi Arabia). As day progresses toward evening other Sheykhs and elders continue to visit with us as we ask questions to learn more. There is much more that we learned than there is space here to cover at this time but it was a very educational visit.

By night fall myself, Randall Harris and Tim Parlove make the decision that we will sleep overnight in the tent while the others board the bus to return to a local hotel in nearby Qamishli. This was especially enjoyable for me to spend the actual day and night of my birthday in the desert Tai tent. Basil Jadaan showed us how to wrap our Kafiyas for night warmth and we were given huge feather quilts to keep us warm. However, not ready to go to sleep yet, we joined some of the Bedouin who were attending a campfire outside and we drank tea with them and humorously I tried my luck at a few Arabic sayings from my travel book. They very much enjoyed sharing the campfire with us. Language seemed no barrier as facial expression and gesture told stories as well as any poet could write. Before retiring I wandered off from the tent into the desert night to drink in the enormous black sky speckled with thousands of bright stars reflecting about the sensory and cerebral intensity this exciting journey had gifted to us.
 

A proud father presents his son on his Kuhaylah Ajuz mare.

The next morning we awoke and had coffee and tea with some of our hosts as we exchanged conversation and awaited the arrival of the others from the hotel in town. When they arrived breakfast was served in the tent. Then a most interesting event transpired, just like the stories of old about the Bedouin. An aged man appeared at the edge of the tent with a most beautiful grey mare which I believe was an Abayyah Seheili. He indicated through our translators that unfortunately in his journey to come to yesterday’s festival he did not arrive on time. But he wanted to be sure that we had a chance to see his mare of which he was justifiably very proud. He smiled and circled her for us and then in an instant, he swung gracefully up on to her back and rode off into the sun across the desert as though blown by a strong wind. He disappeared into the distance facing the same long journey that brought him here. What an incredible display of pride to have come all that way just for a few moments to show his fine Arabian mare. His love of the Arabian mare will no doubt be rewarded by Allah.

After breakfast we took a walk with the Sheykh and some hosts over a nearby knoll to see some more horses, some mares which were tethered out near a huge mound of barley straw. The senior mare was a lovely black Shuwayma Sabbah and there were several other mature mares shackled but the young fillies wandered freely.

After being bred by the Sheykh’s Hamdani Simri the Abayyah Sharak mare and her owner gallop off toward home.	We are welcomed by the Shammar in their huge tent by the ruling Sheikh Humeidi Dham Al Asi Al Jarba, gesturing at left.

Nearby was a beautiful grey Abayyah Sharrakiyah mare with saddle and bridle, tied to a pole. She had been ridden to this location for a breeding to the Sheykh’s young Hamdani stallion. We had the opportunity to witness the mating. The mare was hobbled diagonally with cotton rope and then mounted by the stallion. Immediately after the mating her owner unhobbled her and galloped swiftly back and forth across a ridge and then rode off. Silhouetted by the morning rising sun with a small black tent in the background, this was a beautiful closing sight for us to see before boarding the bus again to make the long journey southward to the Shammar tribe.

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