A Personal Narrative on My Journey
through the Middle East

The horse presentations begins, a rider passes with sword on a Saqlawi mare infront of the tent as a coffee preparer rises with a tray of cups.

The region where the Shammar were to greet us was a considerable bus ride south from our Tai visit. After this long bus ride we were met at the Shammar border by a small contingent of tribesmen in a truck who greeted us and then proceeded to guide us on for miles to the ruling Sheykh Humeidi Dham Al Asi Al Jarba’s compound while videotaping our arrival. Sheykh Humeidi is the Amir of the Shammar tribe and its clans and under his guidance everything about our visit was treated in a formal way.

Arriving at Sheykh Humeidi’s compound was a very dramatic visual with the appearance of something out of an epic Cecil B. DeMille movie. Here in the desert surrounded by some small village like adobe dwellings, was this massive, high walled compound into which we drove. We deboarded the bus and were escorted to an endlessly long tent filled with many elders of the tribe and carpeted with oriental rugs. As we looked around the high walled courtyard, at one end was the enormous, palace like Madafah (guest house) of Sheykh Humeidi and everywhere were tribesmen numbering in the thousands. A loudspeaker announces in Arabic our arrival and greetings as we are seated in the very long tent which faces into the massive courtyard and seated behind us are several long rows of elders and important members of the tribe. Part of our welcoming from Sheykh Humeidi included a glass of warm camel’s milk for each of us which I found very pleasant and refreshing, being both rich and refined in taste.

From inside the tent, you can see the huge Madafah (guest house) of Sheikh Humeidi where we were to stay and also hold a symposium with the elders.	Horses came out often in groups of 5, their appearance announced on a loudspeaker as the paraded by in front of us. Shown here are two very fine mares from the large Hamdaniet Ibn Ghorab group.

A lovely chestnut Hamdaniah Ibn Ghorab mare of the Shammar.

Along with us, the thousands of tribesmen in the tent or surrounding the courtyard, or clinging to the roofs, balconies and high surfaces of the Sheykh’s guest house watch as the horse presentation swiftly begins. Horses are formally announced on loudspeaker by strain in groups, usually of 5 at a time, as they parade by the tent. Most of the horses were ridden by, some were in hand, and some youngsters roamed freely around their dams. The presentation consisted of an estimated 150 to 200 horses. Many strains were in the presentation and two of the larger presentation groups were, Saqlawi Jedran Ibn Amood and Hamdani Ibn Ghorab. Dr. Munzer Absi, translating the announcer’s comments, indicated that these two families originated with the Shammar and have been with them for many generations. Others presented include Muniqi Sbaili, Muniqi Ibn Al-Fataan, Saqlawi Marzakani, Abayyah Seheili, Hadban Inzihi, Shuwayman Sabba, Kuhaylat Wadna, Kuhaylat Dajani Ibn Mruneh, Kuhaylat Al Wati Ibn Rishm, Kuhaylat Reisha Ibn Hitneh, Kuhaylat Ibn Mizher, Kuhaylat Ibn Al-Wayma, Kuhaylat Tuwaysa, Kuhaylat Krush and Kuhaylat Haifi (of which only one was presented). We were told that the horses presented here represent about one third of the Shammar Jowad horse population and that a significant portion of their tribal horses are with some of their branches in Iraq.

After the presentation, many of the tribesmen joined arms in a large group and working their way toward us in the tent began chanting and singing their traditional “victory song” led by several swordsmen. Sheykh Humeidi joined in. It was an intriguing spectacle backlit by a huge bright blue sky, black robes, white Kafiyas and sparkling swords. Several of the sword dancers approached the tent and proceeded to demonstrate their “dueling dance.” Somehow I managed to get drawn into this dance as one of the swordsmen threw me a sword. In the instant that it was tossed to me, I remembered being told only to use the right hand (even though I am left handed) so I caught it with my right hand and proceeded to encircle the “challenger.” It did not take long for my awkwardness to become apparent and in an instant his sword was thrust toward my shoulder hooking my Kafiya flipping it up into the air, seemingly in slow motion and by the time it settled on the oriental rug there was a roar of laughter from the tribesmen. It was great fun for me. Then Tim Parlove was drawn into the dance and he and I were “set up” to be the mock duelers but neither one of us had the temerity to remove any more articles of clothing with the swords. The tribesmen seemed to enjoy very much our willingness to participate.
 

After the horse presentation, the Shammar gathered for a singing of the “victory song” with swords later leading to a sword dance in the tent which I some how managed to join into. Being lefthanded but using the sword in my right hand out of respect for their custom, I lost my Kafiya in the challenge but no other articles of clothing were lost. It was wonderful fun. Proudly claping and chanting to the left side of this photo is Amir Sheykh Humeidi Dham Al Asi Al Jarba.

Some riders chose to present their horses in this fashion and both horse and rider were very steady at it. This tribesman is on his Abayyah Seheili mare.

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